Photography and words by Samantha Demangate

Iguazu Falls is the largest waterfall system in the world, laced with 275 active waterfalls. Not to be confused with the famous Angel Falls in Venezuela, which is the largest singular waterfall in the world. The site is roughly three times the size of Niagara Falls, its total width being 2700 meters (8858 ft), height 82 meters (269 ft) and longest drop 80 meters (262 ft). 

Iguazu Falls is an overwhelming and sprawling system of separate waterfalls that stretch across the border of Argentina and Brazil. The border between the two countries splits Iguazu in half, providing both countries with a unique view of the natural wonder.

Iguazu has been a UNESCO world heritage site as of 1984 and was declared to be one of the New Seven Natural World Wonders. To this day, it is one of the most iconic sites in South America.

Our Stay at Iguazu

My boyfriend and I frequented the falls over the span of two weeks, one week in Brazil and one week in Argentina. Our traveler friends balked at this length of time, as most people visit Iguazu falls for only 2-3 days maximum. We are digital nomads, so the two weeks made sense for our work schedules and made the trip possible. In addition, we are generally slow travelers and love a quiet small town to kick back in, so it was perfect for us. For the average traveler looking for adventure, I would recommend only 2-3 days visiting Iguazu. 

Note: You will notice that Iguazu Falls goes by many names. Cataratas is a common name for Waterfalls in both Spanish and Portuguese. When referencing Brazil, we will use Portuguese, and call the falls Cataratas do Iguaçu. The city connected to the falls is Foz do Iguaçu. When referencing Argentina, we will use Spanish and call the falls Cataratas del Iguazú. The town connected to the falls in Argentina is Puerto Iguazú.

Foz do Iguaçu – Our Experience in Brazil

We started our Iguazu adventure out in Foz do Iguaçu. It was our first visit to Brazil and we were buzzing with excitement. We crossed the land border between Argentina and Brazil and viewed the wide Iguazu River. We weren’t exactly sure what to expect from the city of Foz do Iguaçu, but we were ready to dig into some Brazilian cuisine upon our arrival. Our accommodations were in a residential neighborhood with access to a few “Ma and Pa” style restaurants. We decided to feast on acai and mountains of fresh Brazilian fruit. The produce in Brazil does not disappoint. 

The next day, after we slept off our acai and bowls of maracuya (passionfruit), we got up early and sought out the falls. Our host, Thiago, graciously provided transportation for us for the week and promptly ushered us to the falls in the morning, providing us with all the information we needed. 

Once we arrived at the Cataratas do Iguaçu, a bus transported us to the trail. We could hear the falls roaring as we approached the one trail to follow to the pits of the Devil’s Throat. 

Our walk by the falls was simply everything. As we approached the revered Devil’s Throat, a man next to us stopped in his tracks, stared with awe and then rapidly clapped his hands in an excited frenzy. His action summarized the feelings that we all had. We felt joy, in its purest form. Nothing can quite explain the feeling that we shared.

Before returning to our accommodations,  we jumped over to Parque Das Aves and observed a diverse population of birds. As soon as we returned home, we began our hunt for food. We decided on a casual fish restaurant. We ordered a series of deep fried fish at Sabor do Peixe Petiscaria, and we hunkered down and got cozy as it began to rain. Little did we know that rainstorms would be the theme of the rest of our visit to Iguazu.

The Magic of Foz do Iguaçu and the Preparation for Paraguay

We then prepared ourselves for fast paced tour of Foz do Iguaçu and a venture into Paraguay the next morning. Thiago gave us our tour of Foz do Iguaçu and it consisted of a visit to the local Mosque, Buddhist Temple, the Three Frontiers and the famous Itaipu Dam. Oh, and a quick trip into Paraguay on top of that. It was an unexpected day to say the least, as we planned none of it prior! The majority of the excitement of our time in Brazil revolved around this quick and wacky visit to Paraguay. Check out the full story here: Into the Chaos of Ciudad del Este, Paraguay

History and Features of the Brazilian side

The Brazilian side of Iguazu, known as Iguaçu in Brazil, did not become a UNESCO world heritage site until 1986. The conservation of both sides was crucial to preserving the vulnerable Atlantic Forest and protecting the substantial community of endangered species.

Sporting a theme park-like entrance, the Brazilian side offers a distinctly different experience than Argentina. Upon entering, the park buses visitors to the main hiking path to begin their walk to the falls. After turning a few corners, the first falls will come into view, the area gradually expanding into a panoramic experience. The walking path eventually leads to a viewing platform. This platform sits dramatically at the edge of a severe drop of the infamous Devil’s Throat. The walk to the edge is optional, but rewarding to those who are brave enough! Oh, and the spray will surely soak visitors to the bone.

Additionally, there is also an elevator to a viewing tower for those who would rather not be so immersive. 

Puerto Iguazu – Our Experience in Argentina

The town of Puerto Iguazu is simple and charming. We spent a whole week wandering around the little city, hunting down the best choripan (best choripan award goes to Chez Le Choripan) and dodging the frequent warm rainstorms. My boyfriend and I were lucky enough to have our own parilla (bbq) at our disposal for the week. That said, we cooked at home almost every evening.

Before arriving, people who had been there before told us that the town was sleepy. People expressed shock at the length of time we chose to stay in town. But luck was on our side and our stay crossed over with the Indigenous Sound Art Festival (Festival de Arte Sonoro Indígena).   For three nights in a row, we walked down the street, listened to incredible music and watched stunning performances in a humble local convention center.

Our time in Puerto Iguazu was peaceful but was not short of unexpected experiences. Due to the heavy storms, we were only able to visit the falls once during the whole week. We savored and deeply appreciated that visit. For the most part, we stayed to ourselves and enjoyed the loud cracking of thunder as the rain fell hard. We ran from our house to the covered parilla, fervently guarding our asado and grilled vegetables from the rainwater.

History and Features of the Argentine Side

The Argentine side was the first to become a UNESCO world heritage site (in 1984), and is home to a list of remarkable flora and fauna. There are five hikes to explore with different levels of difficulty to choose from. All of the hikes are relatively tame and provide a beautiful view. We viewed the falls from high and low angles and galavanted around the footbridges connecting it all. 

A visit is only complete with a train ride to the infamous Devil’s Throat at the far bend of the falls. Both Argentina and Brazil offer boat rides, but they are particularly popular on the Argentine side. Although we skipped it this time, the boat is highly recommended by visitors.

Bonus Myth: The Legend of Iguazu

Have you heard of the myth of Naipi? Naturally, the wonder of Iguazu has a fantastical story to accompany its grandeur.
The Guarani legend has a few versions, but goes something like this: A girl named Naipi was spotted at the riverside by the deity M’Boi. Enamored, M’Boi ordered her to be sacrificed to him at once. Naipi was already betrothed to her lover Taroba and upon hearing this order, the two decided to flee across the river. 

M’Boi saw their attempt to escape and furiously splintered the river into two, creating a volatile abyss. The two were separated, cursed to become one with the land on the opposite sides of the falls. They are destined never to meet again, as M’Boi eyes them from the caverns of Devil’s Throat. It is said that the rainbows of Iguazu connect the two lovers across the waters. 

This legend isn’t the only history that the Guarani created for the falls. The name Iguazu comes from the Guarani as well, translating to “great waters”. 

And That’s a Wrap!

So, have you decided to visit Iguazu Falls yet? If you’re heading to Argentina or Brazil, I encourage you to consider visiting. This once in a lifetime experience will surely leave you enchanted.

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