Written and photographed by Samantha Demangate
Let’s take a historic stroll through Colonia del Sacramento of Uruguay. The humble port city of Colonia del Sacramento is a must visit while in Uruguay. Situated on the Río de la Plata, Colonia del Sacramento is an hour and forty-five minute ferry trip from Buenos Aires, Argentina. The sites take all of one day to see, but the friendly locals and calm waterfront may encourage you to stay a day longer.
Once off the ferry, you will reach the center of town within fifteen minutes by foot. The historic quarter, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, provides you with a taste of history.
Visiting in the off season, my boyfriend and I found ourselves walking alone on crooked cobblestones. We carried our 60 liter backpacks and my boyfriend’s surfboard with determination. Milonga music played in my earbuds, flooding me with excitement as we took in the smell of citrus and grilled meat. The rusted cannons resting on stones caught our eyes as we rounded around an alleyway into Plaza Mayor.
The streets, dotted with dainty orange trees, led me to question whether the design was Spanish or Portuguese. Colonia de Sacramento is like a fairytale, woven together with cobblestone alleyways and laced with vine-covered homes. The windy, curvy alleys were not classically Spanish, and we knew a complex history between the Spanish and Portuguese wove the city together. From that moment on, we began to explore.
Spanish? Portuguese? Communication Please?
The official language of Uruguay is Spanish, and Uruguayans speak Rioplatense Spanish (a dialect spoken around the Río de la Plata areas, also found in Argentina). Though Spanish is the country’s official language, some Uruguayans speak Portuguese as well. However, the Portuguese spoken in Uruguay is influenced by Spanish, fusing the two together to create “Portuñol” (half Portuguese half Spanish). This mixture of languages occurs near the border of Brazil and Uruguay. That said, Colonia del Sacramento is a far way away, so you’ll only need Spanish here!
Side note: Avoid speaking Spanish in Brazil. Some tourists often confuse Spanish and Portuguese in Brazil. Brazilians proudly speak Portuguese, and they will appreciate any effort to speak their language in their country. Tente (try it!).
A Brief History of Colonia del Sacramento: The Back and Forth
Colonia del Sacramento was established by the Portuguese in 1680, and acted as the defiant key against the bordering Spanish Governorate of Río de la Plata. Spain seized La Colonia once in 1681 and again in 1705. It was returned to the Portuguese shortly after, with the Treaty of Utrecht. The Spanish were perturbed by the occupancy of the Portuguese. These early conflicts led to the inevitable Spanish and Portuguese War of the 1700s. After a great back and forth and many failed attempts by the Spanish, Colonia finally fell into the hands of Spain in 1777 with the Treaty of San Ildefonso. Eventually it was under the rule of Brazil, until finally it became independent and officially, Uruguay.
The constant fluctuation between Spanish and Portuguese rule in the early days led Colonia to look as it does today. Its streets, winding and wild (unlike Spain) and its architecture are an amalgamation of both cultures. That said, the historic quarter, frozen in time, is of Portuguese build.
Dip Into the Past
The historic quarter previously mentioned or, Barrio Histórico is a quick walk from the ferry port of Colonia. The whole quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is difficult to miss if you’re wandering by the waterfront. There are several sites that are worth a visit!
Portón de Campo
The wooden drawbridge, Portón de Campo, partly destroyed, is the original entrance to the town. It will greet you first and foremost and will quickly be immersed into 17th century Colonia.
The Colonia del Sacramento Lighthouse
The Colonia del Sacramento Lighthouse stands proudly in the historic quarter. For a small fee, you can climb to the top and enjoy the view of city. I recommend this visit, but it is not suitable for children under a certain height as the lighthouse has a short railing at the top.
The Covenant of San Francisco
Attached to the lighthouse are striking old ruins. It might surprise you to learn that they are the ruins of a 17th century covenant! The Covenant of San Francisco, (or what is left of it) lies at the base of the lighthouse and can be viewed by the public.
Calle de los Suspiros
One of the most iconic streets of Colonia del Sacramento is Calle de los Suspiros, also known as the Street of Sighs. There are many beliefs behind the origin of the street’s name. Some believe that prisoners walked down this street on their way to their hanging. Others believe prostitutes would walk the streets, waiting for the arrival of sailors. You choose the lore that tickles your fancy.
Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento
Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento, also known as the Matriz Church and the Basilica of the Holy Sacrament, sits proudly by the Plaza de Armas. Built in 1680 by the Portuguese, it has humble beginnings, but has been renovated many times over.
Museums Too!
In addition to these attractions, Colonia has a series of museums, many of which are interconnected. The Portuguese, Regional, Indigenous, Spanish, Tile, and Municipal Museums are spread throughout the town. They are all within walking distance of one another and are quick visits.
That’s Great but, I’m Hungry
Since we travel full time, my boyfriend and I usually cook most of our meals. We use local ingredients and try to cook local dishes (my boyfriend is a gifted cook!). But since we were in Colonia for only two days, we decided we would eat out. The town is so small, it’s pretty easy to stumble upon a restaurant or food stand right around the corner. Frankly, I enjoyed everything so much, I would encourage you to wander and discover it on your own!
When thinking of wine in South America, Argentina and Chile generally come to mind. Uruguay has an excellent selection on its own! From the local market to humble little wine bars, you will find a glass of vino that suits you. Pair this with queso Colonia and freshly sliced jamon, and you won’t be sorry.
We kept it casual during our visit to Colonia del Sacramento. That said, my favorites for food and drink are the following:
Barrio Sur Cafe – With a gorgeous view of the harbor and the sweetest of the staff, you can enjoy a sunny day outside with a good bite. Casual but cozy, you can find the classic chivito sandwich, delicious desserts and simple wines to accompany them.
Vinoteca de la Colonia – A welcoming wine bar with daily soups, yummy sandwiches, charcuterie and charismatic servers. I was lucky enough to find shelter there during a particularly heavy day of rain. 10/10 would drink here again!
Colonia Sandwich Coffee Shop – With two locations close to one another, you can find yourself with a coffee in your hands pretty quickly. If you’re visiting in the colder months, I recommend grabbing a cup of cafe con dulce de leche to help you cope with your chilly stroll. Ask for a shot of rum or whisky to go with it!
La Esquinita Bakery – Is a hop, skip and a jump away from the waterfront. Ready to meet all of your medialuna needs, you’ll find something sweet for a quick snack.
Colonia del Sacramento in Conclusion
We visited Colonia in Winter (June/July for South America), and found ourselves there in the chilly off season. We enjoyed the unusually vacant waterfront with a mate in hand. The silence was blissful. To be clear, Colonia del Sacramento is not a place for a hustling, bustling, action packed experience. It is a small and humble city, accustomed to tourists and is fun for historical exploration. Many enjoy the city before heading to nearby Montevideo. It is a great destination to unplug for a day, take in your surroundings and just be in the moment.
Enjoy this article? Check out another here: The Park Life of Buenos Aires
Learn more about the UNESCO World Heritage Site here: Historic Quarter of the City of Colonia del Sacramento